I’m rather happy that I didn’t plan to walk the French Way. I uploaded a few apps and joined a couple of Facebook Camino groups. I found the groups were helpful … if you’re a “typical” American. Much of the advice was geared toward people still working, with some form of expendable income, but only six weeks of vacation time.

There seemed to be a push to complete the Camino, in thirty to thirty five days, then get back to normal and go back to work. My current situation is not normal. I’ve been traveling, full time, since last November. After a few months in Southeast Asia, I began making my way to Georgia, Moldova, and Armenia. I was in Yerevan, when I decided to purchase shoes, hop a flight to Paris, and make my way to Saint Jean Pied de Port.

The walk from Saint Jean Pied de Port to the Orisson Hostel takes most pilgrims two hours. The uphill climb took me closer to six. I had to stop, … a lot! Then, it began to rain. I found shelter, under a grouping of trees, (without a rain jacket) and waited it out. Many pilgrims stop at Orisson for a coffee and a bite to eat. Once rested, they continue walking to Roncesvalles.

Once at Orisson, I could barely walk to my dorm room. A young woman who had passed me, back in St. Jean Pied de Port, couldn’t believe that I was the same person. She arrived at Orisson three hours before I did. We had quite the laugh about that.

The walk to Roncesvalles the following day was a chore. The food truck was already gone, by the time I came close to the end of the uphill. Then, just beyond the final upward stretch, it was time to start the 14k decent. I sat with a group of pilgrims. I was running out of water and I had miss getting lunch via the food truck. I had already been walking the same amount of time it took most people to reach Roncesvalles. I was now also limping.

I set off again. Two women approached me and asked if I was OK. One added, “You can’t walk down to Roncesvalles!” She added that at my current pace, I would miss the check-in time for the municipal hostel. The two women worked for a company transporting pilgrims with mobility issues. They had driven up, for a short hike, after doing some food shopping for their clients. As it turned out, they were also staying at my hostel. Their car was nearby and I was given the task of holding a crate of peaches. The Camino provides, indeed!

I did much better the following day, on the walk to Zubiri. There were small villages, along the way. I could now stop and take a needed break. I snoozed on the water situation and ran out, but I managed to keep going. I also figured out my pace. I went from tree to rocks, from rocks to an upcoming line in a road. I was able to find little ways to just keep going. I also took better rest breaks. I was still slow, but I could get from point A to point B.

My “dang you were slow” Camino friends from Orisson and Roncesvalles were also at my hostel in Zubiri. It was great seeing them again and also knowing that although I was still much slower, we were all ending up at the same place each night. This would be the final time that I would see them. I booked an extra night in Pamplona, in a private hostel. I simply could not sleep in the shared ones. Those snoring stories about the Camino are all true!

Back in Saint Jean Pied de Port, I told myself I’d be OK, as long as I reached Pamplona. The private room was now extra motivation to get there. After two nights of rest, I was ready for the hill that leads Alto del Perdón. At an altitude of 770 meters, it’s a special “I’m walking the Camino moment!” Everyone stops and takes photos there!

The down hill to Puente La Reina was rocky and unreal! Estella and Los Arcos are a blur. I now have no idea of what day it is. I’ve reached the 100k milestone, but there’s another 600k ahead. Down time is spent doing laundry and booking my next accommodations. I’m in bed by 8:00 pm. I wake up at 6:00 and leave my room by 6:30. Being slow, a lot of people pass me. When I get to the finish line, for the evening, someone always comes over to say hello.

My plan is to keep the same pace, spend an extra night (in one of the larger cities) each week, and then slow that pace (if necessary) for the final 100k push. Walking the last 100km (62 miles) of a Camino trail makes you eligible to receive the Pilgrim Certificate (Compostela). When I reach the final 100k, I’ll have to compete for hostels with pilgrims just starting. I’m just not sure of how long it’s going to take me to reach that stage. So, for now, I’m booking rooms a few days ahead of time.

Worst case scenario, I’ll need to stop, each evening, where I can find a place to sleep. I certainly have the time. I have close to sixty days, until my EU visa expires! If it takes me longer than thirty or thirty five days, it’s my Camino and I’ll lag behind if I want to! XOXO —GGT